Optical illusions delight the eye.

Surprise and drama are decorating elements that delight people when they enter a room. All it takes is a touch of paint magic.

An artistic technique which offers more than a little magic is called trompe l’oeil, which is a French phrase for “fool the eye”.

Trompe l’oeil technique is an application for both fine art and decorative art. There are murals by masters of the Renaissance which are trompe l’oeil illusions but the effect goes back even further to Pompeii, where artisans painted walls to look as if they were made of marble.

Creating a trompe l’oeil illusion has its essentials.

Trompe l’oeil is part of a genre of fine art called surrealism. Illusions are often employed in surrealism but what makes it most effective is the degree to which 3-D realism has been created on a 2 dimensional surface.

For decorative purposes, believability is essential, but masterful technique is optional. The illusion must be drawn out with a fair amount of accuracy and the lighting close enough to reality to create believability. The ability to paint realistically with painstaking subtlety isn’t as important. A little bit of whimsy can be fun and desirable in some decorative applications.

Trompel’oeil illusions show well outside in public places, or inside in homes and offices. What is important is that whatever is created fits into the continuity of the space, lighting and true to the fundamentals of perspective.

The composition must be complete.

A painting with a realistic effect in it is just realism. A trompe l’oeil illusion requires that it is complete in its relationship to its surroundings. It is a 3 dimensional altering of reality on a two dimensional surface. For the mind of the viewer to rest in the illusion, it must be complete.

When colors used to create the illusion fit in with the color scheme of its surroundings, the illusion is that much better. However, what is most essential is that the composition and lighting of the mural are rendered with as much accuracy as possible.

If the illusion is photographic, somehow it loses something in translation from fantasy to reality. Photographic realism can certainly be impressive, but the fine line of what is actual and what is painted seems to work best when the piece can be viewed both ways. The viewer will appreciate being able to somehow crack the illusion. The art of Trompe l’oeil is a painting technique, not a photographic technique.

Humor is inevitable.

From the outlandish to the tongue in cheek, trompe l’oeil illusions are often humorous or satirical. Some murals are so grandiose, even though they are serious and realistic they lighten people’s mood when they see one. Astonished smiles are common among viewers.

Creating a painted illusion.

For the novice, it is best to have at least a little experience with drawing and painting. This is so that there is some familiarity with how paint works [and how it doesn’t], how it feels to use a brush, which ones work well for your project and how to draw out your composition. If you haven’t had such experience, it would be good to take a beginner’s painting class in the use of acrylics, which are the paints most often used for these projects.

Where to paint a mural.

Visibility is most essential when choosing a place to paint any mural. If you choose a hallway, for instance, the walls on either side of the viewer would be so close that it wouldn’t be fun to view it. The illusion needs some distance in order to be psychologically received. However, if you are looking down a hallway and there is a wall at the end of it, providing it is wide enough, it is a good spot for a trompe l’oeil illusion.

Wherever we see areas where we would like to have an actual 3 dimensional feature or opening like a window or a door- that is a good spot for a trompe l’oeil mural.

A trompe l’oeil door illusion.

Probably one of the best small murals to start with would be something purely architectural, like a door. Windows sometimes require painting landscapes or living things. Life is the most difficult to paint effectively for bridging the gap between the real and the imaginary.

For beginning purposes, a closed door would be easier to paint, because its lighting and linear aspects are less complex. A six panel door has areas of relief which add dimension to its surface, for example.

For those who have a bit more experience, if the door is ajar with another visible architectural feature behind it, that is fine, but you have made a real job for yourself because now you have more complex perspective and lighting to deal with. It is best for beginners to start more simply. The effect will still be delightful.

If you would like to paint an illusionary door, it doesn’t have to match your home’s architecture. It can be as whimsical a design as you wish. What would make its planning and execution much easier is to photograph an actual door or obtain a photograph of one. It should be large enough to be able to see it well, so you can gather enough visual information from it without guessing.

Simple lighting that is just overhead and directly in front of the door would be the best lighting for a mural because it is neutral. You want your door to look like it belongs to the lighting in the room as much as possible, but it isn’t a rigid rule.

Drawing and painting tips for your mural.

An art tracing projector can help if you have access to one. The photo can be projected on the wall and traced in with darker vine charcoal or a harder drawing pencil. Pencil tends to burn through paint eventually but offers a finer line than vine charcoal. Pencil lines should be done very softly. Most of the vine charcoal wipes off and leaves a subtle line. It mixes well with paint.

Drawing your mural without a tracing projector requires planning, mathematics and some simple drafting ability. You can have your photo Xeroxed to make it larger. You can mark on it with pencil or match colors from it if you wish. Your ability to translate the dimensions of the door onto your wall will take some calculating. The simpler the multiplication of your photo’s dimensions are, the easier it will be to get a ratio that blows the image up to the size you desire.

Latex all purpose paint primer would be fine to use as a base coat for a mural. Make sure you have your wall’s touch up paint on hand because you will most likely paint outside the lines.

Acrylic paint is versatile. It can be used indoors or outdoors. It dries quickly, which can sometimes be a hindrance as much as much as it is a help, and cleans up easily. It can be mixed with acrylic retarding liquid or acrylic medium to slow drying time. The more liquid the acrylics are, the easier it will be to paint with them. Water should not be the primary liquefier for the final coats of acrylic paint. A flow medium or a more liquid version of acrylic paint is available.

When mixing up your colors, know that your door will be a focal point if it is painted in bold colors that dominate rather than recede into the room’s color scheme. That is fine if you wish it to be the focal point of the room, but it will probably have a pretty strong presence without being so boldly colored. Paints will almost never be used right out of the tube because their colors are too bright.

Be aware that painting a mural is a grand challenge, but highly addicting and ultimately incredibly satisfying.

Resources-

Golden Acrylics makes some of the finest acrylic paints and painting mediums on the market. They have excellent customer service and tech support. They can even tell you how their paints hold up in the outdoor climate of almost any state. They will also recommend preparations and finishes for the longevity of your artwork for both indoor and outdoor applications.

Liquitex makes quality paints and mediums as well. These companies offer a lot of information about color and the use of their paints.

Painting Murals: Images, Ideas and Techniques by Patricia Seligman [North Light Books], is an excellent book for the aspiring mural painter. There are many photos of murals and visual instruction on how to accomplish them.

www.FramedArtDecor.com offers hundreds of museum quality art prints, photographs and posters. Expert framing and matting assistance is offered on their website with just a click. Decorating and Fine Art articles that help and inform customers can be found on the website.

Leagh Janell is passionate about fine art and decorating. His 30 years as a fine artist and decorative artist for a high profile clientele have afforded him some authority in those fields. At present, Mr. Janell writes for www.FramedArtDecor.com

 

 

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“I walked into the master bedroom and was stunned,” said Joseph, a designer and remodeling contractor, after answering a call for help from a couple in their mid-seventies. He recalls,

“I have seen a lot of mirrored ceilings, mostly in dining rooms, but this was different. It was a deep, rectangular frame with spot lights, mounted on the ceiling in pink formica laminate over wood. It had a mirror inside it that fully reflected the king sized bed. The spotlights had a dimmer switch. That and the long mirrored closet wall made it very clear to me that the former owner of the condominium was athletic.”

Joseph said that his clients wanted the “pink framed mirrored monstrosity off the ceiling.” They felt the mirrored wall was forgivable because it brought natural light into the room and gave it a grand appearance, even though the bedroom was large.

“It seemed unnecessary to me that the whole structure should come down. We took down the mirror inside it and painted out the pink formica with semi gloss white paint. We draped the outer part of the structure from the ceiling in fluted fabric with an elegant floral design that flowed from the ceiling to the floor behind the bed. We covered the inside part where the mirror had been, in a soft white fabric that fanned out from a central point like a sunburst. The room was transformed from a 1970s bachelor pad into an elegant and modest master bedroom- even with the mirrored wall.”

Mirrors have a psychological association with magic.

The “looking glass” appears to offer us a doorway into another dimension. Much like the technique of trompe l’oeil in fine art, it insists on an illusion that fools the eye.

If mirror is used well in décor, it isn’t recognizable as mirror at first. It is only after taking in the entire room that one realizes that part of the room’s dimensionality is an illusion.

People delight in being pleasantly surprised. Mirror can add an element of surprise to a room, and even though the initial surprise wears off, the illusion is almost believable enough to be taken for granted.

“Let there be light.”

One of the most obvious benefits to a décor with a large mirrored area is that it brings more light into the room. Windows, skylights and electrical lights are doubled in a mirror, so ambient light from any source will be enhanced in an office or living environment.

Areas of some rooms might seem to end abruptly or look closed off.

Joseph, the designer, has used mirrors to “open up” areas of a room that look as if they need to be expanded. He said,

“Some galley kitchens or kitchenettes that are open to other rooms seem tight and closed. One way to expand those tighter areas is to mirror the walls underneath the cabinets and behind the sink. It’s a tip that many people are wary of, but I have found that it works every time to open up a small kitchen.”

Is damage more likely to occur to a mirror in a work area like a kitchen?

Joseph comments, “Not really. I don’t remember ever having a problem with damage to a mirror in a kitchen work area. Even the cover plates for the plugs and switches are mirrored. There are different ways to install mirror, but mostly, a channel is put up for the mirror to slide into and a thin clear plastic edging is applied to the outside edges of the mirror. I always have the professional mirror and glass installers do those jobs.”

“I did one job for an American ambassador to a European Country who had a getaway bungalow in New England, recalls Joseph. The house was built in the early 1970s. It had a second story living area with a fireplace which faced the stairway going down to the first floor. The area around the stairway was an open nook. It had no interesting features, but had a strong presence in the room. I mirrored the two walls that made up the nook which reflected the living room seating in front of the Hearth. It was fabulous!”

Art and mirrors are not always well matched lovers.

Your art will love your mirror. How could it not enjoy its own reflection, doubling your visual pleasure as well.

But beware! Your mirror may not love your art in return.

Mirrors create the reverse image of everything, including your artwork. If an oil painting’s composition or structure is not well balanced in line or light effect, particularly a portrait, it will show up in the mirror. What you didn’t notice in the painting might be abundantly evident in its reflection. This is why many artists carry small mirrors in their paint and brush kits.

Can I do it myself?

You can do anything yourself…if you have the time to learn, and the money to cover the possibility of mistakes.

It is important to remember that mirrors are glass. Glass shatters and cuts. In large sizes, it is heavy and cumbersome. It needs to be properly cut to fit into wall areas because, although a room may look square, it can be amazingly off. Wood moldings can make up for some mistakes, but sometimes it looks like a mistake is obviously being covered up.

In more moderate sizes and in areas which aren’t so particular, mirrors can be fairly easy to put up, but first consult your ‘How-to’ book, ask questions at Lowe’s or Home Depot, where glass and mirror is often custom cut, or consult a professional glass and mirror person.

Necessity is the mother of creativity:

Gary lived in an apartment in New York City. He brought home a 4’ x 2 ½’ mirror for a brick wall in his living room. He left it leaning against the wall on a small, thin fabric area rug which was on a glossy finished floor.

The mirror moved and the rug slipped on the floor, causing it to crash into pieces on its back. Gary came up with a creative solution which he recounts,

“At first I was horrified when I first heard the crash! But when I went over to see what to do with the broken glass, I realized that it had broken in a very interesting way. Just the right quadrant of the mirror smashed into pieces which were sent out from the corner onto the floor. The pieces were similarly shaped but graduated from largest to the smallest. It was a graceful composition of breaks, and yet the majority of the mirror was still intact.”

Gary went to work. He bought some thick plexi-glass that was larger than the mirror that had broken and used an epoxy paste to apply the mirror to the plexi-glass in the exact same shape as when it broke.

The project was meant to go one way, but Gary’s bold creativity gave him a mirror that looked as if it was magically fragmenting into the air from one corner after he bolted it to the brick wall.

 

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Congratulations!

You’ve purchased some wonderful art prints at Framed Art Decor, where you also had them expertly framed and now you can’t wait to hang them.

“Oh,” you say, “I need to hang them… how do you do that again?”

No sweat, but you need to stay focused. Poorly hung artwork would make even the Mona Lisa look cheesy.

Assuming that your lighting has been thought through, and you know that your art will be clearly visible when displayed in their desired locations, there are some simple steps to follow in order to hang them like an expert.

Keep in mind that the rules for hanging artwork are flexible according to your needs and preferences, but this information will be a handy guide from which to work.

Planning- first things first.

Put your artwork on the floor and lean it against the wall where it will be hung. You can do this with all the artwork for your room at one time if you have more than one piece to hang.

Envision how people will be viewing the artwork. Will they mostly be sitting down?

Most people hang their artwork too high. If you imagine a halfway horizontal line across your artwork, that central line would be considered eye level. This is the desirable plane on which to view artwork.

How high or low on the wall you wish to display your artwork may vary according to the average height of those viewing the art. If people will be seated when viewing the art, then the height of the center vision line would need to be lowered to accommodate the approximation of eye level for sitting people.

56” from the floor to the center line is a good place from which to start, but raising it or lowering it according to the elements in the room and how people will view the artwork should be taken into consideration.

If you have two or more smaller pieces of art, they can be hung in two rows, one on top of the other with the eye level line halfway between them, which would be approximately 3”to 4”. Larger paintings would require at least 6” to 8” between them.

A smaller piece of art can be hung over a slightly larger one. The eye level line for this group would be halfway between the top of the smaller piece to the bottom of the slightly larger piece including the 3” to 4” dividing space.

Hanging a single piece of artwork:

Measure the halfway line from the top of your artwork to its bottom including the frame. That measurement cut in half is the artwork’s center line. If possible, a small mark can be made on the back of the artwork to indicate the center line. A piece of tape will do as well.

Now, measure the distance from the floor to a point up on the wall at 56”. This may be more or less, according to your needs. Put a mark in pencil on the wall at that point.

Stretch the picture hanger wire on the back of your artwork up to a point as if there where a picture hanger holding it. Measure the point from the center line of the artwork to the top of the stretched picture hanger wire.

The measurement of distance from the floor to the point you placed on the wall plus the distance between the center line on your artwork and the top of the stretched picture hanger wire is where the picture hanger will be placed on the wall.

Some paintings might require more than one picture hook. These can be spaced about 3” apart. Large paintings should have a picture hanger hook in from each end of the wire about 6” to 8”.

Hanging a smaller art piece over a little larger one:

Add the measurement of the height of the two paintings plus the 3” to 4” dividing space that will be between them. Cut that measurement in half, which gives you the visual center line for the two pieces.

Now, measure the distance from the floor to the point on the wall at approximately 56” and mark it in pencil.

Take the smaller painting which will be above the other. Stretch its picture hanger wire up to a point where the picture hanger will hold it when it hangs on the wall. Measure the distance between that point on the picture hanger wire and the top of the painting.

Take the measurement of the horizontal center line for the two paintings and subtract the measurement from the stretched picture hanger to the top of the smaller painting. The resulting amount is then added to 56”. This gives you the measurement of where to put the top picture hanger on the wall. Mark it on the wall in pencil.

Once the smaller art piece is hung on the wall, take the larger painting and stretch its picture hanger wire up at the central point where its picture hanger will hold it. Measure that point to the top of the larger art piece.

Add the measurement of the stretched picture hanger to the top of the artwork plus 3” to 4” for the dividing space between the two paintings. The resulting number of inches is measured down from the bottom of the top art piece and marked on the wall. Make sure the mark for the bottom picture hanger is aligned with the top picture hanger. This is where the hanger will be placed for the lower piece of art on the wall.

Hanging two rows of smaller paintings:

Groupings of artwork can be very decorative and dramatic.

Planning is important when hanging art in groups. Are there six pictures in two rows, or eight pictures in two rows, etc.? The vertical center line may fall between two paintings or in the center of two paintings depending on how many are in the group. Working out from center may be helpful to ensure proper placement.

Assuming the overall design of the grouping is appropriately worked out for the wall space, hanging smaller pictures in two rows is the same as hanging a larger picture under a smaller one, as earlier described.

For small pictures that are the same size, the center vision line is in the halfway point between the top piece of art and the bottom one. Horizontally, the pictures need to have a space approximately 3” to 4” between them.

Horizontal hanging of more than one piece of artwork requires the measurement of the width of one of the small pictures added to the measurement of the space between the pictures. This distance is what is needed to hang the next picture hanger hook to the right or left.

To keep the artwork level, the measurement from the floor to the picture hanger hook remains the same from one to the other unless pictures are along a stairway.

Hanging artwork along stairways:

Artwork should be aligned with the center of each stair and probably no more than about 5’ from the stair to the center vision line of the painting.

Hanging artwork at alternating heights:

What looks best for artwork that alternates in height within a grouping is that the top of one picture is on the same plane as the bottom of the picture next to it. This creates a straight line from which each piece either goes up or down.

Hanging a line of artwork on one wall:

If all the artwork is the same size on a wall, the eye goes to the overall consistency of shapes and frames, rather than the artwork itself. It is best to hang different sized pieces together in a long line so the eye tends to rest on each piece individually.

Some artwork hangs in two or three pieces connected as one concept called a diptych or triptych. They would be an exception to this guideline.

Spatial effects:

Small masterful or dramatic pieces of artwork may be best hung with a lot of space around them. Otherwise they get lost in the artwork surrounding them. Museums often offer small important artwork a whole wall for viewing, and keep it low on the wall.

To make walls look higher, keep the artwork slightly lower. To make the ceiling lower, hang the artwork a bit higher.

Picture hanging systems:

All you have to do is Google picture hanging systems, to find an array of hanging systems for artwork that support flexibility and ease. If the artwork in a space is always revolving such as in corporate offices, galleries, hospitals and government buildings, upgraded picture hanging systems would be a great option.

Some people have an eye for hanging art.

Those souls who are brave enough to hang artwork completely by eye, often have a group of holes behind their artwork where they were either too far to one side, or too high or low. This is one method to hang art, however, good planning and consistent good habits bring much better results.

 

Framed Art Decor offers hundreds of museum quality art prints, photographic prints and posters to view and purchase at their website. Expert framing assistance for artwork is offered through the use of an online tool which shows each print in a choice of frames with just a click. Articles on Decorating topics, artists and their artwork are available on the website.

Leagh Janell is passionate about fine art and decorating. His 30 years as a fine artist and decorative artist for a high profile clientele have afforded him some authority in those fields. At present, Mr. Janell writes for Framed Art Decor.

 

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